The ghats 

              This journey to Varanasi began in Srishti itself. I read articles, watched a documentary as a class, and discussed the richness of the culture as an outsider. This visit had to be a different one, where the expectations hovering at the back of my head were to be blocked! But what was I looking for? Did I even want to visit this place? What will be the first aspect that would strike me? Will this place change me as a person with a belief in faith? The anxiety to reach the holy land was at its brim. The long wait to explore this place was finally over on 2^nd November.

               This course started off with visiting the heart of Varanasi, ‘the Ghats’ like a tourist. Starting from Assi ghat the entire class walked throughout the ghats till Manikarnika ghat! A few walked ahead restless to know the character of the next ghat and the rest held back captivated by the activities alien to them. The ghats had various dimensions to imbibe from. We were already amazed with the dependency towards Ganga. However, the one ghat that struck each one of us was Harish Chandra ghat where the cremation took place. Of course we were curbed with the number of bodies being burnt around. The atmosphere around was an unusual one. One would expect the family members to be around that zone we saw a foreigner couple were seated to observe the process. I did overcome what I had seen but what moved me was the activity around these flaming pyres. There were kids flying kites, a few men playing cards, some spectators seated on the stairs. Not to forget the men who were seated with their lot of wood and a weighing machine and selling wood for the pyre. Why did I see no grief in this area? The answer I could find was probably that they were conditioned to this; they grew up along with this. As much as an outsider would be surprised with 24 hours cremation, it was their job to perform it to earn a living. I proceeded ahead capturing this ambiance that I had experienced.

             What did the ghat ahead have for me? Now knowing that I would see some kind of ritual being performed, probably I was looking for more old “sadhu’s” or Pandits doing the ‘aarti’. To my surprise the expectations were added onto, there was a young boy whose hair was shaven off in a platform. A crowd ahead caught my attention,I was looking over shoulders to get a glance at what looked interesting to them. A foreigner was getting himself a body massage from the locals. The crowd around this place was not of the outsiders but of locals enjoying this sight. When I was present at that moment I walked away disinterested but now when I compare the coexistence of this activity within the holy environment at this ghat, it just amazes me. The walk along the ghats itself displayed the faith in Ganga. I could see old, young men and women come with their children to have a bath at the ghats. A few come with a belief that their entire day will be a safe and a happy one as they had washed their sins in the morning and a lot of them come for  the availability of water. The locals resided on the ghats, they grew up in this crowded environment where tourists come in and out like swarms of bees. Every Hindu festival is celebrated first at the ghats and then at their homes. They have faced obstacles of the Hindu-Muslim riots or the times when the Ganga flooded. The boatmen earn by taking people on a boat ride along the ghats. Ladies earn their living by selling beads and flowers and other ornaments. Lastly the entire life cycle completes when the dead are cremated at the ghats.

Today the youth questions the polluted and contaminated Ganga. What I saw in my visit to Varanasi was a concern for the changing character of the Ganga but this concern was over powered by the belief they had that “Ganga ji has its own beauty to cure herself”.

                                  Ganga ji

          I spend an hour in the morning with Ganga ji. I am 73 and my legs hurt when I walk down the stairs of the ghats. I am a Brahmin and I perform my rituals every day. Ganaga means life to me. It has been a part of me since I was born. When I was 10 I use to run along the ghats when there were lesser people. My father had a boat in which I would accompany him while he was fishing. I have grown up along the Ghats. Since I am a citizen here I still stay here with my family.

         Varanasi has changed in many ways but Ganga ji is still the same. She supports the lives of people residing in Varanasi. “mun ki shanti, ganga ji ke tat pe hi milegi”

         Ganga ji has taught me how to live. I had no one to teach me how to swim but Ganga ji did. I could’ve drowned but Ganga ji saved me. I have always prayed to Ganga ji so that she blesses everyone with the blessing she continues to bestow on me. I pray for forgiveness when I am unable to walk down to take a bath. I live with the thought that one day my ashes will be immersed within her and I’ll flow with her.

        I found myself

        I am 56 and I was a believer. Because my parents used to worship Ganga I would go along with them and take a bath. I never questioned and I believed it to be holy.

         Today I have to look after the shop I run. I am mostly busy doing my work. This is one of the reasons I haven’t been able to fine time to go to the Ghats. What is shocking is that I've come across people from Varanasi who is hostile to Indian tourists but warm to the outsiders. The city has changed along the years the people are fleecing money from the tourist’s in the name of god. I see most of our own people harass the visitors in the crowd. They pickpocket, eve tease and create a nuisance in public.

          I have worshiped the holiness of Ganga yet I couldn't find what I was looking for. I came across this person who told me to follow a public figure. I watched a few shows, red articles about him. He offered exercises to calm one’s mind. There were times in the past when I sat at the banks of Ganga but with the help of this exercise I have found myself. It is not an alternative for me but definitely something I would advise to follow.

         I've left behind the ‘aarti’ and ‘pooja’ done at the ghats. I need not depend on Ganga to find quiet.

                            A walk along the streets of stories

        We walked through the streets of Varanasi, without realizing that all the gullies led us to the ghats or more precisely to Ganga ji. It was not a day to visit the ghats. I was curious to know the people of Banaras. I wanted to know their stories on how Banaras grew as a city. What change had they seen since their childhood? What is it that holds them in this holy place? Touching upon the raw nerve I wanted to know their views on the condition of the Ganga. These were questions that came across while I was at the Banaras Hindu University IIT Guest House. 

        The entire group of students were now fairly familiar with the place but not the people. We left in groups of 4 to explore the streets. We started from the mouth of all the streets. I had considered this day to talk to people on the streets and in shops. My friends and I had taken the lane we were familiar with. Our questions hovered around Varanasi and its people and therefore we moved along together. And now the challenge was how we can initiate a conversation. I was not clear upon how I would request a person if he could answer a few of my questions. From the previous experiences my friends had, they struck a small conversation earlier in the trip but the responses were of sorts. Some people were not eager to talk, a few walked away admitting they had no time. Having this in mind I was hesitant to speak. I pushed myself to walk towards a young boy who sells tender coconuts. I started asking him general questions about his work, his love for Varanasi and when I felt that he was comfortable to answer any questions I continued. Now this was not a conversation to find answers, I let him speak. He seemed to enjoy the conversation. He spoke for 45 minutes. My last question to him was, “could you tell me a day when you were extremely happy?” this brought a smile to his face. He was shy to answer this last question. He took his time and whispered softly. He was getting married to a girl he loved since 4 years. His eyes were twinkling with joy. I wished him luck for the future and proceeded. I was content that my first conversation didn't just help me with the information I needed but left an individual smiling. In the struggle to earn a living when would one recall their joyous days?

          Strolling down the lane I came across a crowded market with many people to talk to but I didn't. The people of Varanasi are not welcoming to tourists, they are sacred that their stories and photographs are taken and published unreal. I had to make careful decision to approach someone. I was trying to understand the body language. Many walked by, who were in a hurry; a few looked away when our eyes met, people warned their neighbors not to talk to me. I didn't lose hope, I went ahead, spoke to many bought flowers and fruits so that I could converse with them. This worked out and I had a good long conversation with 6 people. Towards the end of the day I had gathered many stories. The stories primarily brought forth their journey till today in their homeland. Overall the stories accompanied life in and around the Ganga. We had a discussion once all of us returned regarding what is it that each one us would like to take ahead. We made a map of our explorations and observations which further helped me to structure what I wanted to explore in depth. Each one of had something to say from the experiences we had during the day. We gathered and shared the incidents that we faced.

         I take away my experience and those revere the beautiful stories I wouldn't have come across anywhere else.